Tehran – Day 1

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Nothern Tehran Palace Qajar Carpet

After only four hours of sleep we were picked up at our hotel by our tour guide although it took quite a while to sort through all of the tourists and match them up with their assigned guides. We thought for a while that we were the odd men out as we didn’t seem to have a guide but he eventually showed up late and we were on our way.  We are a group of 6–three Americans, one Aussie and two from somewhere in the Baltics, I believe.  Today seemed to be a make it up as we go day as the first destination we tried to go to–a Palace–closed at 10AM for tourists. This after an almost hour long drive from our hotel to the hillside of northern Tehran where the air is cooler and cleaner. We eventually were taken to another less impressive Palace where we stayed for a couple hours and then taken to lunch at a restaurant in the very nice Jamshidieh Park closely. 

Not much of a first day and we probably could have stayed at the hotel and slept for several more hours but we had little choice. One thing I forgot about Tehran is the unbelievably large amount of traffic and drivers like nowhere else in the world. I though Rome was organized traffic chaos but Tehran is 100 times as bad…it is completely disorganized chaos that somehow works out for everyone–cars, motorcycles and pedestrians alike. It is mesmerizing watching drivers work their way out of what is seemingly an almost certain disaster. Another item forgotten is the amount of pollution…you can see it hanging in the air.  If the climate change folks have hopes that things can be reversed they only need to visit this city to realize all hope is lost.  I don’t think there is any way to contain this. 

We are back at the hotel where we will most likely sleep the rest of the day and night awY and hope for a more organized day tomorrow. Too tired to write anymore. Good night. 

 

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On the way to Iran…first stop Vienna.

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Vienna from the top of St. Stephens church

When I left Louisville on late Wednesday evening I was convinced that I was not ready for this trip…both physically and mentally. I had to schedule a last minute meeting with my doctor because my recovering shoulder wasn’t recovering; it seemed to be getting progressively worse. Still, I managed the 7 hour bus ride to Chicago, a 9 hour wait at the airport, an 8 hour flight to Dusseldorf, another 2 hour flight to Vienna where we managed a brief pit stop in the city center.   After all of this we still managed to climb the 350+ steps to near the top of St. Stephens church to get the view of Vienna pictured above.  We also had lunch at a rib place in Vienna where each of us devoured 4 racks of ribs each.  We were shocked when then brought so many to the table but apparently this was a single serving. So, don’t let anyone tell you that the U.S. Is the only place with large portion sizes.

It was hard for me to get a feel for Vienna during this briefs stay. It didn’t have the immediate impact positive that Istanbul had when we had an equally brief layover there during last year’s Central Asia trip. But then again, I had already been to Istanbul for a longer stay before that trip so I knew the city fairly well.

We are on the plane to Tehran at this very moment…halfway through the flight. I hope to have much more to report in the not two weeks..

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Yes, back to Iran

After waiting close to two months to receive our visa approval and MFA code from the Iranian government and another two weeks waiting while our passports were being processed at the Pakistan embassy in DC, we finally received our visas yesterday…with just a bit more than 2 weeks left before we planned to leave for our trip. We hurriedly booked our flights to Tehran and are ready to go.

I have acquired some technology that will allow me to post more often during this trip and I look forward to conveying our experiences using both photos and prose. The trip begins April 17…hope you care enough to follow our adventure.

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My San Francisco Treat and the Iran Wait

Golden Star Restaurant - San Fran

Golden Star Restaurant – San Fran

Five Star Chicken Pho

Five Star Chicken Pho

Nine weeks post shoulder surgery and it feels like I was operated on yesterday; my shoulder is killing me. Still, I managed a cross-country flight to San Francisco for a conference, with the very real possibility of a much longer flight in three weeks…keep reading.

I am currently lying in my hotel room with a Ziplock bag full of ice on my shoulder. I have just returned from a two hour walk to Chinatown and back where I found a hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese restaurant that served fantastic pho. I ordered the 5 star chicken which was served with basil on the vine, super fresh bean sprouts and a plate full of seasoned chicken that I am sure was alive sometime today (it wasn’t from a package is what I am trying to say).  A splash of Sriracha finished it off; it was the finest bit of pho I ever had.  I left with my face on fire, dripping with sweat; that’s how I know it was beyond good.

I only had my iPhone so the photos above will have to do.

My shoulder is becoming too numb to type but I did want to mention that we have been planning a trip to Iran for mid-April and have been playing the visa game with the Iranian MFA and DC embassy.  We finally got MFA approval last weekend and sent our passports to DC last week asking for expedited service.  Still haven’t received them back and can’t make any flight reservations until we get the visas.  It’s touch and go with flight prices increasing daily.  I hope we don’t have to resort to a backup plan; too much effort went into this.

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Back to Iran?

We have submitted all of our information to apply for an Iranian visa and are now playing the waiting game with Iran’s MFA (Ministry of Foreign Affairs) to see if we get approval.   We are looking forward to a 12 day tour beginning in mid-April but may have to quickly adjust our plans if we get denied.

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